East Cochise Stronghold
Brad Hardin and I
Climb Endgame 5.10b 5 pitches and Wasteland 5.8 6 pitches
Feb 16-18
Camped BLM land. There are established campgrounds at end of the road with bathroom. But the BLM land are more open, better views, and FREE.
Day 1: Climb Endgame 5.10b.
Approach started 7:30 am, arrived at base at 9:00am. Started climbing at 9:30am. Topped out at 2:30pm. Back at the car by 5:45pm. We spend 30 minutes on Summit. ANd about 30 minutes before and after climb at the base of route. Really relaxed day. The crux was on 1st pitch, opening 2-3 bolts were on slab traverse. Best pitch is pitch 3, on really beautiful plates and chuckleheads on electric green lichen rock. The final pitch was varied, with cool chimney moves and required different techniques.
Pitch 1: 150 165'. 15 bolts...Bottom half traverse and steep middle, easy finish all have different feel to first pitch.
Brad following on 1st pitch. Picture is deceiving. This is last 30-40' of 5-7 climbing, underneath him is vertical rock, sustained 5.10 climbing...great movement, positive holds, but does not let up.
Pitch 2 is a cruiser. Big holds.
Brad following Pitch 2. Amazing views. Tucked in corner.
Pitch 3 is my favorite pitch. Bouldery start, then jug haul
Topping out on Pitch 4. Pitch 4 is a slab, steepns for 10-15' then slabs over to big shelf.
Summit whiskey time on End Pinnacle Summit.
Day 2 is climb Wasteland 5.8 on Wasteland Dome. More of an adventure, all Trad route.
Started 8:05am
Base of climb at 9:00am
Started climb 9:30. Summit 3:30pm, back at car at 5:45pm
Start with Pitch 3 anchors below chimney. No pics of Pitch 1, bc pitch 1 sucks. Pitch 2 is angling crack with no good photo op.
Chimney about 30'...protected with micro nuts on right side. Headgame for sure. If you know there is a big jug flake (where my right hand is in pic), this might ease things...I didnt know where my next hold was and I didnt want to run out on my pro.
Above chimney and leap of faith move, is the best part of the climb...STEEP, airy plates.
Me on pitch 4 belay station, Brad still following on pitch 3
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